Western route (Kobe → Shikoku → Onomichi) — 7 days
Kobe to Shikoku and back via Onomichi: Awaji Island and Naruto’s whirlpools, the Iya Valley’s vine bridges, Kochi and Matsuyama’s castles, the Shimanami Kaido island-hopping route, and Miyajima’s floating torii.
Don't miss
Setoda “Lemon Island” gelato mid-Shimanami.
- Day 1 — Kobe → Akashi Kaikyo Bridge (world’s longest suspension bridge; Maiko Marine Promenade walkway under the deck) → drive across → Awaji Island (Izanagi Shrine if time) → Naruto whirlpools (Uzunomichi walkway over the strait) (drive ~2h). Stay Naruto/Awaji. — Route map
- Tide timing: whirlpools peak ~1.5–2h before/after high/low tide (strongest at spring tides) — check the tide table before leaving Kobe. If arrival lands on slack tide, do Awaji stops first and hit Naruto at the right window, or swap to Day 2 morning en route to Iya.
- Day 2 — Naruto → Iya Valley (vine bridges, kazurabashi) → Oboke Gorge (boat ride through steep cliffs) (drive ~3h). Stay Iya. — Route map
- Day 3 — Iya → Mt. Tsurugi (foliage, peaks early Oct) → Kochi: Katsurahama Beach + Sakamoto Ryoma statue, Kochi Castle (one of 12 original), Hirome Market (katsuo no tataki, sawachi), Godaisan (Chikurinji, Ryoma overlook) (drive ~3h). Stay Kochi. — Route map
- Day 4 — Kochi → Shimanto River (chinrinkyo submerged bridges, “Japan’s last clear stream”) → Ozu (castle town on Hiji River, Garyu Sanso villa) → Uchiko (preserved wax merchant town) → Matsuyama: Matsuyama Castle (original castle) + Dogo Onsen (Japan’s oldest bathhouse, Spirited Away inspiration), tai-meshi dinner (drive ~4h). Stay Matsuyama (tattoos: ✅ friendly (city baths)). — Route map
- Day 5 — Matsuyama morning: Botchan Train (retro streetcar) + Ishite-ji Temple (51st pilgrimage temple) → Shimanami Kaido (70 km island-hopping cycle route, Setoda “Lemon Island” gelato, Kurushima-Kaikyo bridge viewpoints, tolls ~¥5,000) → Onomichi evening (drive ~3h). Stay Onomichi. — Route map
- Day 6 — Onomichi morning: Senkoji Park (ropeway + hilltop view), temple walk (25 hillside temples), Cat Alley, Onomichi ramen lunch → drive to Hiroshima (~1.5h) → Hiroshima afternoon: Peace Memorial Park + Atomic Bomb Dome, okonomiyaki dinner. Stay Hiroshima. — Route map
- Day 7 — Hiroshima → Miyajima: Itsukushima Shrine (floating torii) + Momijidani → return car → evening shinkansen home (no car day). — Route map
Highlights
Local food & drink
- Katsuo no tataki — Kochi’s straw-seared skipjack, rare inside, with ponzu and garlic
- Sawachi ryori — Kochi’s ceremonial sashimi platter feast
- Tai meshi — Ehime’s whole sea-bream rice pot, the Dogo Onsen classic
- Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki — layered cabbage, noodles, egg, pork
- Grilled Seto oysters — creamy Hiroshima Bay oysters at Miyajima’s stalls
- Onomichi ramen — flat noodles in chicken-pork shoyu broth with back-fat
- Kochi dry sake — among Japan’s driest sake, pairs with katsuo
- Setouchi lemon chuhai — bright lemon highball from Onomichi’s citrus
- Ehime mikan juice — Japan’s #1 mandarin region, pressed fresh Don’t miss: Setoda “Lemon Island” gelato mid-Shimanami.
Local culture
- Naruto’s whirlpools — the strait’s tidal maelstroms are a daily natural spectacle, best timed to the tide tables posted at the Uzunomichi walkway
- Iya Valley vine bridges — the kazurabashi were woven by mountain villagers as a defensive measure, and crossing one is still a hands-on, swaying ritual
- Sakamoto Ryoma — Kochi’s hometown hero of the Meiji Restoration, whose statue faces the sea at Katsurahama and whose spirit still shapes the city’s freewheeling identity
- Kochi Castle — one of Japan’s 12 original keeps, where you can climb the original wooden interior and see how a daimyo actually lived
- Shimanto chinrinkyo — the river’s low “submerged bridges” flood over in high water by design, a quiet emblem of life along Japan’s last clear stream
- Dogo Onsen — Japan’s oldest bathhouse, where the ritual of soaking in the Kami-no-Yu bath is a living tradition that inspired Spirited Away
- Botchan Train — the retro streetcar from Natsume Sōseki’s novel still rattles through Matsuyama, a working piece of literary history
- Onomichi temple walk — the hillside chain of 25 temples is a pilgrimage in miniature, each with its own guardian and view over the Inland Sea